Indian Trail Fence | Fence Company for Wood Privacy, Vinyl, Aluminum & Chain Link Fence Installation and Repair

Six-foot privacy fence in pressure-treated pine or western red cedar, dog-ear or flat-top with a cap rail where the HOA allows it. Posts are 4x4 at eight-foot centers, 6x6 at gates and corners, three 2x4 rails, pickets on galvanized ring-shank nails. Pine is the value pick and lasts 15 to 20 years here if it is stained once it dries; cedar costs about a third more, weighs less and shrugs off insects. If you ask us, a pine fence with a 6x6 at every corner outlasts a cedar fence with 4x4s everywhere.

Shadowbox alternates pickets on both sides of the rails, so the fence looks finished from your yard and from the neighbor’s, and a July thunderstorm pushes through it instead of against it. Semi-privacy spaces the boards an inch or two apart. We think both are the easy yes from an HOA board that caps solid privacy at six feet but still wants a good-neighbor face toward the street. On a corner lot the board may ask for shadowbox on the street side and solid privacy behind, and we build that transition at a post so it reads as one fence.

Three- and four-foot picket in pine, cedar or vinyl for front yards and corner lots where height is limited. Pointed, dog-ear, French gothic and arched tops, two- to four-inch spacing, matching walk gates. Honestly, picket is the usual answer when an HOA wants the front yard open but the dog kept in, and a 48-inch vinyl picket asks nothing of you for 20 years.

Virgin PVC privacy and picket with aluminum-reinforced bottom rails so the panels do not bow between posts. Tongue-and-groove boards, routed posts, UV inhibitors in the resin and a lifetime manufacturer warranty against yellowing and cracking. No staining, no painting, and a July pollen coat washes off with a hose. Pricey next to pine, about a third more per foot, but in our opinion it is the last fence that yard will need, and the one HOA boards approve fastest because every panel looks the same from the street.

Powder-coated aluminum in flat-top, spear-top and puppy-picket styles, four to six feet, with rackable panels that follow a sloped lot without stepping. Half the lots in the newer Indian Trail subdivisions fall two or three feet from the house to the back line, so racking matters more here than the catalog suggests. Pool-code compliant out of the box. Ornamental steel for estate gates and heavier runs. Powder-coat warranties run 15 to 20 years and the fence never rusts through.

Galvanized or black vinyl-coated chain link in 9 and 11 gauge, four to six feet tall, for back yards, dog runs and commercial lots. Terminal posts set in concrete, line posts driven or set, tension wire top and bottom, and privacy slats when you want screening on a budget. We think black vinyl-coated is worth the extra dollar or two a foot on a house lot: it disappears against the tree line where bare galvanized stands out for 20 years.

Two- and three-rail cedar or locust split rail for property lines and acreage, three- and four-rail estate rail for a cleaner look, with 2x4 welded wire or no-climb mesh behind it to hold dogs and horses. East of town, toward Hemby Bridge and Unionville, lots run two to ten acres and a privacy fence would be the wrong scale; a split rail line with wire reads as the farm it used to be. Posts go on 8 or 10 foot centers, driven or set, and the wire gets stapled on the animal side so a leaning horse pushes the mesh into the rail, not off it.

North Carolina’s pool barrier rules call for at least 48 inches of height, gaps under four inches, and self-closing, self-latching gates with the latch 54 inches up. We build to that in aluminum and removable mesh, and leave the inspector’s checklist with you so the permit closes on the first visit. One thing that still surprises people: the house wall can count as part of the barrier, but only if every door to the pool has an alarm or a self-closer, and the inspector will check. Many Indian Trail backyard pools went in after 2015 with the builder’s temporary mesh barrier, and in our opinion that mesh is a placeholder, not a fence.

Charlotte-area thunderstorms do most of their fence damage between June and September, and the pattern is the same every year: posts snapped at grade or heaved out of saturated red clay, blown-out panels, rotted bottom rails and a gate that drags. We photograph for your insurance, quote the repair line by line, and say plainly when more than a third of the posts have failed and replacement is the cheaper path. If you ask us, a fence that fell in one storm usually had rotten posts before the wind arrived.

Three- and four-foot walk gates and ten- to sixteen-foot double drive gates, all on adjustable steel frames so a wood gate does not sag by the second summer. Drop rods, two-sided latches, lockable hardware and 6x6 or steel posts ready for an operator later. A gate on a cheap hinge is the screen door of the fence world: everyone notices when it stops closing, and nobody notices the 200 feet of fence that still stand perfectly. That is why the gate posts get the deepest holes on the job.

Six-foot chain link or welded wire runs with a concrete or gravel floor, dig guards and buried mesh for diggers, puppy pickets on aluminum and picket fences, and gate latches a nose cannot flip. Tell us the breed and we size the mesh: a 2x4 opening holds a lab, a beagle wants 1x2, and a dachshund wants the dig guard more than the height. In our opinion a buried 12 inch skirt of mesh beats a taller fence for most escape artists.

Oil-based semi-transparent stain, sprayed and back-brushed into the grain. New pressure-treated pine has to dry four to eight weeks first or the stain will not take; in a wet Carolina spring it can be closer to ten. Cedar can go sooner. Plan on a new coat every two to three years to keep the grey out, and honestly, a $400 to $700 staining visit every third summer is the cheapest thing you can do for a $7,000 fence.